Yokohama

My first assignment to Japan began twenty years ago this week. In the intervening years I have returned many times. A lot has changed since I first arrived in 1988. Surprisingly, much also remains the same. My latest visit was last October when I spent almost three weeks in Yokohama. Twenty years ago the trains ran like clockwork but there were few signs in English to guide novice travelers. I became adept at reading the map outside station and counting stops to make sure I got off at the correct destination. Today, electronics make everything much easier. Most train compartments include digital signs that display the approaching station name in Kanji, Hiragana and English. This makes rail travel much more relaxing.

The area around Yokohama has changed dramatically. The new development of Minato Mairi that began in the late 90’s is nearing completion. The docks of the old shipyard are now a tourist attraction surrounded by a splendid shopping mall, tall office buildings and international hotels. A focal attraction is the Nippon Maru. This is a former sail training ship and is now transformed into a maritime museum.

But the traditional Japanese character still remains in Yokohama. Twenty years ago I was introduced to the simple pleasures of okonomiyaki. This is a batter cake that can contain vegetables, shrimp, squid, . . .just about anything the diner requests. Most okonomiyaki restaurants are set up as grill-it-yourself and the result looks like a well filled omelet. Twenty years ago I first visited this small restaurant located off Honmoku-dori. Last October I wandered along memory lane with my Pentax and was pleasantly surprised to see it is still in business. Cooking okonomiyaki is best enjoyed with friends – a bit like a fondue evening. I was alone so I didn’t look in to see if the owners have changed. Maybe next time.